While whales have been around occasionally, I hadn't seen any since the end of October, and for an orcaholic like myself, full whale withdrawal was beginning to set in. I was able to get out on the water for the first time in 2019 last weekend, right towards the end of a long streak of winter weather, meaning there was still snow on the ground, transforming typical scenes like Spieden Island into something completely different.
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| Steller sea lions on Green Point |
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| Spieden Island under a dusting of snow |
We joined several other boats in a search for a group of transient killer whales that had been seen several hours before, and as luck would have it, they were found! It was so great to see some dorsal fins again, and even cooler with the snowy backdrop - a bucket list item for me, to see killer whales in the snow!
We recognized the T90s, but there were other whales present as well, and it wasn't until we got home and pulled out the older but more complete transient ID guide that we realized we had seen the T69Ds - new whales for me!
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| From left to right T69D1, T69D2, and T69D |
The T69s are more often encountered on the western side of Vancouver Island, but like many other transient matrilines, have started venturing into the Salish Sea a bit over the last few years. While we were on scene, the group of 7 whales was in steady travel mode, meaning we often got to see lots of fins at the surface all together!
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| From left to right: T90B, T90C, T90D, T69D1, T90, and T69D |
Before we left, we got some of those classic backlit blows:
And this shot of pelagic cormorants on a log was too fun not to share as well:
It was a refreshing afternoon on the water and spending some time with some killer whales was rejuvenating to the soul, but looming over the encounter was the threat of a moratorium on the viewing of Southern Residents and a permanent increase in viewing distances from 200 to 400 yards on both sides of the border, as Governor Inslee's bill based on an Orca Task Force recommendation moves through the state legislature and vessel working groups in Canada consider the same options. The scientific merits of these recommendations are dubious at best; I can and have gone into the scientific details elsewhere, but the short version is that speed matters a lot more than proximity in terms of noise levels around the whales. I want to take a moment hear to share something else, however: the fact that whale-watching changed my life.
A whale watch trip my family took in Alaska
when I was 12 truly redefined the course I would take. It was the first
time I saw orcas in the wild and since that day there has been no going
back for me. Coming home from that trip, I did research about other
killer whale populations and learned about the Southern Residents. A
couple years later we came to the San Juan Islands and it was from a
boat I would meet the whales that would become my life's passion. The
generation before me was influenced by seeing whales at SeaWorld. My
generation has been influenced by seeing whales in the wild.
I am far from the only one who has had a
life-changing experience on a whale watch trip. I know this in part from
my 6 years working on a boat and seeing these moments occur for people firsthand. I
also know this because many of the people in our whale community have
had experiences similar to the one I did, where a boat trip to see wild
whales was a transformative experience.
Last summer just before J35 and J50 put the
Southern Residents in the world spotlight, 12 members of my husband’s
family did a tour with Maya's Legacy including myself and my husband....We were fortunate to be one of only two boats on the water with the T124As, but Captain Jeff started
talking about how they were seeing less and less of the Residents and
why... Coming from me was one thing, but for
them to hear what was happening to our beloved Southern Residents from
their captain and to see his concern and compassion was huge. They all
wanted to know what they could do to help. We never saw Residents the
whole week (in early July) that we were there, but the impression was
made and I know they all went back to Arizona, Florida and even Italy
and told the story of the Residents' plight to their friends and family.
- Susan
Some are advocating that people watch whales from shore instead of on a boat, and while some of my best-ever whale encounters have come from shore, the reality is it's not as viable of an option as it was 15 years ago. When I first started visiting the San Juans, the Southern Residents passed the west side of San Juan Island on a near-daily basis during May-September. Now it's not uncommon for weeks to go by during that time with no Southern Residents seen from Lime Kiln. It's just not realistic to ask visitors to see whales from shore when sightings have become so sporadic.
We keep hearing (in large part
from people who have never been whale-watching) about how whale watch
companies are owned by businessmen out to exploit an endangered species:
in it for the money with little regard for the well-being of the
whales. I have met many of the owners of Pacific Whale Watch Association
companies and I have yet to meet one who falls into this
category. They all got into it for the same reason I got into it: out of
a love for the whales, the wildlife, and this entire ecosystem. Yes,
they make their living at it, but they are constantly assessing moment
to moment and year to year what is best for the whales.
I had a
trip booked with Maya's Legacy far in advance, had friends/family in
town that were going with, and the weekend we went out wound up being 4
days after J35 lost her calf. Captain Jeff told our entire boat full that they
were the only orcas in the area, and that we would not be within any
kind of optimum viewing distance because of the circumstances. He
offered to refund the entire boat. But everyone still wanted to go out
on the water regardless and wanted to hear more about what was
happening.... We were only out
there for a brief time, witnessing through binoculars part of J-Pod foraging near the Fraser. Jeff got emotional while we were there. Some
people don't get to see that. And I guess that’s why it infuriates me
to have them vilified and thrown under the bus. Because it seems, to me,
the exact opposite, in more cases than not. But because this is also
how they make a living, we just hear “exploitation”. - Amanda
I have had
conversations with owners, captains, and naturalists over the last 18
years, and seeing firsthand how much they care is what has made me upset about vilifying what they
do, scapegoating them as the reason the whales are in the situation they
are in, and calling for more restrictions simply because you advocate for any and all orca protections without
taking time to become familiar with both the science and the people
involved. The whale watch industry has constantly gone above and beyond what is required of
them to protect the whales. Do they make mistakes? Yes. Is it a work in
progress? Yes. But they are the only industry I can think of that is
voluntarily making sacrifices to benefit the whales.
Part of the reason I have been outspoken on
this issue is because I've read all the science and I want to advocate
for what's best for the whales. My greatest fear is that we will ban or
further restrict whale-watching and walk away feeling like we have done
something bold to help recover the Southern Residents, when in reality
we will have failed yet again to tackle the major, yet more complicated, issues they face.
Some people have assumed I'm being paid by the whale watch industry to have this opinion, but this is not true - in fact, it is at my own personal
expense that I travel to these meetings to make public comment, and it
is my own free time I give to writing letters, posting debriefs of the
science, and encouraging advocacy. In the interest of full disclosure I
did work for a whale-watch company as a naturalist from 2005-2010. I also volunteered on Soundwatch for several summers, both of which gave me perspective. I do go out on whale-watch vessels, with people who are friends and
when there is extra space available anyway; this is not in exchange for my advocacy. My opinions and my work are
not being compensated for in any way; they are my own, and they are
based on my experiences.
Thanks to some common sense prevailing, the vessel bills have been altered to remove the moratorium on viewing of Southern Residents. They include a go-slow zone around the whales, a permitting system on commercial whale watch vessels, and an increase to a 300 yard viewing distance on Southern Residents. Ten years ago when the first vessel regulations went into place, vessels were the focus for years, because they were the low-hanging fruit: the easiest thing to address. Since then, we have still failed to seriously address the more major risk factors of salmon abundance and contaminants. Now that we have spent months debating vessels again, my hope is that we can finally move on. If we are serious about Southern Resident killer whale recovery, this conversation can no longer be about vessels, vessels, vessels. We must put that risk factor aside and finally talk about what can be done on the big ticket issues, even if they are complex and the sacrifices painful.